Setting up a ridiculous electronics package.

Over the winter I started developing a plan to hook up a complete wireless electronics package on the K1600 GTL.  The bike has built-in bluetooth capabilities providing a foundation to build upon.   My goals were to have music, phone, navigation, and a CB radio all playing through a Bluetooth headset.

The list of devices includes:

1. All of the functions included on the bike –  AM/FM radio, iPod, satellite radio and BMW Navigator.
2. Galaxy S3 phone (cell phone and wifi hotspot)
3. Galaxy Tab 7.0 Plus tablet (mp3 player, Pandora, Google Maps)
4. CB Radio

The first item I had to get was a Bluetooth headset.  I settled on a UClear HBC100 Helmet Communicator due to its small size, reasonable cost ($150), and its unobtrusive microphone.  After charging it up and installing it in the helmet, I paired it to the bike.  Locating the speakers inside the helmet took quite a bit of trial and error in order to get the best quality sound.   In the end, I guess I’d have to characterize the music quality as acceptable.

Now that the Bluetooth headset was working, it was time to add more devices.  When I take my cross-country trips, I like having a CB so that I can monitor traffic and road hazard reports from truckers.  I also find some of the conversations entertaining which helps to pass the time across the flat, straight, and boring midwest roads.  After some online research, I settled on a Midland model 75-822 handheld radio.  It’s a 40 channel battery-powered radio with a scanner and weather band radio built-in.

Mounting all of these electronic gizmos required a vast array of Ram mounts and cables.  I looked at what seemed like hundreds of types of  cables and mounting options and came up with a plan.  A couple of cables and splitters were routed from the aux port, under the body panels, and zip tied to the handle bars.  Short cords were used to hook up the tablet and CB.

With all of these battery-powered devices, I also needed to work out a charging solution so I also bought a dash mount dual USB charger, mounted it to the handlebars, and hard-wired it to the battery.

I now have all of my electronic gadgets mounted and powered.  Once the weather improves, I’ll go for a ride and see how everything works.

Advertisements

K1600 Seat Modification

I’ve put over 8,000 miles on the BMW since I got it in August 2012.  Overall I’ve found the K1600GTL to be very comfortable.  I like the position of the handlebars and have adjusted to the position of the foot pegs.  However, something needs to be done with the stock seat.

Initially I had some concerns about the foot pegs being directly underneath me but I quickly adapted to the new riding position and with the addition of the Illium engine guards and footpegs, I can stretch my legs when necessary.  I still think I prefer the feet-forward position of the Electra Glide on longer rides but the GTL is better than I thought it would be.  One thing I like about the GTL pegs is that you can stand up when going over railroad tracks or other bumpy patches of road.  With the floorboards on the Harley, you really can’t stand up easily.

On my 2010 Ultra Classic, I had the most comfortable motorcycle seat (Harley Hammock) that I’ve ever ridden on.  I could easily burn a full tank of gas without stopping or getting uncomfortable.  It was the perfect seat for me and even after 800+ mile days, I felt good at the end of the day.

The stock seat on the GTL isn’t horrible, but after about an hour, I start getting uncomfortable.  After 2 hours, I really need to stop and get off the bike and walk around for a few minutes.  I’m not looking forward to sitting on this seat when I head to California this summer.

Aftermarket seats of all shapes and sizes are plentiful for Harley’s but there seem to be very few options for the GTL.  The aftermarket seats for the GTL also seem to be rather expensive and require the use of your existing seat pan adding shipping costs and additional time to the process.

The main problem I have with the stock seat is that there seems to be a high spot running down the center of the seat.  This is the primary cause of discomfort for me.  I would also like the seat to be a bit softer – the stock foam is pretty firm.

I did some internet research and from what I found, it looks like modifying a seat is a project that can be done easily and inexpensively.  All you need is some foam, some spray glue, a sander to shape the foam, and a stapler to put the seat cover back on.  The DIY approach also allows for test fitting and adjustment to ensure that the seat is shaped just right for me.

Materials
———-
Spray adhesive – $6.00
1″ high density Foam – $20.00
1/2″ foam – $10.00
Staples – $3.00

Tools
——
Harbor Freight Air Sander – $15.00
Harbor Freight Air Stapler – $20.00

Dis-Assembly
————–
Start by removing the staples holding the seat cover in place.  I did this with a small flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.  Since I only plan to modify the front part of the seat, I left some staples in and just moved the front part of the seat cover out of the way.

Once the seat cover was, out of the way, I unplugged the heating element and peeled the seat foam from the seat pan.  There was very little glue holding the foam to the seat pan so it came right out.

Next, I removed the top layer of 1/4″ foam and carefully peeled the seat’s heating element from the main chunk of seat foam.

Reshaping and Assembly
————————–
At first I tried to just reshape the existing foam but after sitting on the reshaped foam, I still didn’t feel real comfortable.  So, I found a local upholstery supply company and went ahead and bought a sheet of 1″ thick foam to add to the seat.  The foam I got is pretty firm and just slightly softer than the stock seat foam.

I went ahead and glued a layer of the 1″ foam on top of the existing foam and then used a sander to shape the top layer.  After a couple of test fittings, I was satisfied with the shape and decided that it was time to put everything back together.

I set the heating element on top of the newly sculpted foam and then glued a piece of the 1/2″ foam over the top of everything.  This thin layer of foam smooths everything out before fitting the vinyl back over the top of the foam.  Fitting the seat cover took some effort due to the added foam thickness.  As I stretched the cover over the edge of the seat pan, I stapled the edges to the seat pan making sure to work out the wrinkles.

The cover isn’t perfect due to the added foam and slightly different shape but overall, it looks presentable.  The whole job only took about 3-4 hours which isn’t too bad when you consider that this is the first time I’ve ever modified a seat.  Sitting on the bike in the garage, it feels good.  I’m looking forward to a nice long ride once the weather warms up.

First Round of Customizations for the K1600

Within the first couple of weeks after purchasing the BMW I added  a few basic items that I consider necessary for long distance riding.

A cup holder was the first thing that needed to be added.  It took a few days and some creativity to figure out how to mount a cup holder but in the end, I found an inexpensive bicycle cup holder and mounted it to the inside of the left hand fairing.  This actually worked out quite well because it’s easy to reach and did not require drilling any holes in my new bike.

The next thing I did was to replace the odd BMW power outlet with a standard 12v socket.  This was installed in the same location as the BMW power outlet and wired directly to the battery so that I can plug-in and charge my cell phone while the bike is parked.  The 12v socket is slightly larger than the BMW power outlet so I had to enlarge the hole slightly to get it to fit. Overall, it was a simple conversion that allows me to use existing 12v chargers and accessories without the use of an adapter.

The final task was to wire up a socket for my heated jacket and add a battery tender lead.